The 15-course tasting menu valued at $445
By David Morris
It’s a word, yes. And while you may ask why we are purporting the value proposition of a $445, 15-course tasting, one need only look at the first bite. With what is one of the late “Chef of The Century’s” most iconic dishes “Le Caviar Imperial” this starts to be achieved—and it’s only the amuse bouche. This dish boasts 12 grams of osetra caviar atop king crab in a cucumber gelee dotted with cauliflower puree. A similar portion of quality caviar at any major strip restaurant would run you well over $100-$200 and you don’t get the stunning presentation in what is one of the city’s most spectacular dining rooms designed by Pierre-Yves Rochon (think art-deco Parisian townhouse complete with a sophisticated garden, 17-foot vaulted ceilings and a massive Baccarat chandelier).
One of Las Vegas’ Last Bastions of Fine Dining
It’s also worth mentioning that when Vegas was last inspected by the Michelin guide the room garnered three Michelin stars. The restaurant has earned many accolades. Joel Robuchon is also one of the city’s last bastions of true fine dining and one of the most important eateries in the country. Under the stewardship of 33-year-old Chef Christophe De Lellis, the product coming out of the kitchen is also some of the most exciting.
For De Lellis and his back of house team (bakery, pastry and partie) of 23, the prep starts around 11 a.m. to ready the restaurant for 50 guests each night. In those 6-7 hours everything is made “from scratch, all the stocks, all the sauces… and it can take an entire day to make one.” Come 5:30 p.m. another 13 join the staff to greet the first table and orchestrate a symphony-like service to the front of the house.
Given reservations are staggered, there are in fact more staff than guests on hand to deliver the evening’s experience – something worth noting in post-COVID world. “MGM has been very helpful with the reopening” says De Lellis. “They did not try to rush the reopening and did not want the guests to feel like they were missing anything.” And to that end, his entire team is the same as before the pandemic.
Tell Me About the Menu
As for the menu, “We still have the same format. One course at $127, two courses at $168, three courses at $198 and four courses for $250 in addition to our degustation.” But again, there is value as all menus also include an amuse bouche, dessert and selections from their incredible bread, butter and sweet carts.
And demand for the degustation menu is off the charts, “before we were doing about 40-50%, but now it’s 70% and that’s pretty cool to see people wanting to have the full experience” says De Lellis. Think of it as a preview of the restaurant’s most iconic dishes “that were created 20-30 years ago that still look modern” mixed with seasonal specials. And while the menu evolves with the seasons (think lighter summer faire now and richer truffle-forward dishes come fall), the menu is tweaked slightly each week to reflect the best product available. “But at the same time, you can customize your own Robuchon experience if you are looking to have a three-to-four-hour experience.”
A Series of Tantalizing Trios
Presently the degustation menu begins with a series for trios.
The first service starts with a group of extremely elevated salads: sweet and sour lobster with turnip; parmesan-topped artichokes paired with foie; and candied tomatoes.
Next up is a cumin-spiced eggplant velouté topped with a ginger espuma; a crispy mushroom tart complete with a quail egg; and truffled farro risotto.
Rounding out the trios is a “soft and crispy” daikon flavored with an intoxicating dashi; a green-curried scallop; and langoustine served over a squid ink risotto.
This is followed up by a black cod in a Malabar pepper sauce served with wasabi spinach before the savory selections conclude with Thai-spiced veal cheeks.
Things round out with a cheese cart, pre-dessert, dessert (in our case a cherry mousse and chocolate cream presented as mushroom over a Chantilly kirsch forest floor – visually it looks playful and like something out of Super Mario). Naturally, this is followed by selections from a seriously impressive dessert cart.
For reservations contact 702.891.7925 and trust us when we say it’s more than worth it.
